I'm thinking about refugees and how we write about the foods of our country of origin. How we often apologize for our hard-to-find ingredients or for the funk that makes them so damn tasty. How we think it necessary to convince readers that our cuisine is "easy" and "simple." How we adapt until we forget ourselves.
If history is made durable by the survival of the written records, as Montagnard Americans in the twenty-first century, a radical act against our historical erasure is to write our stories now.